History of Fashion Egyptian Costume
History of Fashion
The history of Western fashion is the story of the changing fashions in clothing for men and women in Europe and other countries under influence of the Western world, from the 12th century to the present. The history of fashion design refers to the development of the fashion industry which designs clothing and accessories. The modern industry, based around firms or fashion houses run by individual designers, started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth who was the first designer to have his label sewn into the garments that he created.
the beginning of the 20th century—with the rise of new technologies such as the sewing machine, the rise of global capitalism and the development of the factory system of production, and the proliferation of retail outlets such as department stores—clothing had increasingly come to be mass-produced in standard sizes and sold at fixed prices.
History of Fashion has changed through this pried:
- The Ancient Middle East 3500-600 B.C.- Crete and Greece c. 2900-300 B.C.
- Etruria and Rome c. 800 B.C.-A.D. 400
- The Early Middle Ages c. 300-1300
- The Late Middle Ages c. 1300-1500
- The Italian Renaissance c. 1400-1600
- The Northern Renaissance c. 1500-1600
- The Seventeenth Century 1600-1700
- The Eighteenth Century 1700-1800
- The Directories Period and the Empire Period 1790-1820
- The Romantic Period 1820-1850
- The Crinoline Period 1850-1869
- The Bustle Period and Nineties 1870-1900
- The Edwardian Period and World War I 1900-1920
- The Twenties, Thirties, and World War II 1920-1947
- The New Look and Beyond 1947-1960
- The Sixties and Seventies: Style Tribes Emerge 1960-1980
- The Eighties and Nineties: Affluence and Information
- The 21st Century: The New Millennium
- Over 500 four-color photographs and illustrations
- Updated text to 2008
- Additional influences from one period or civilization to another, including influences from other cultures.
Egyptian Costume
Walk Like an Egyptian, by chatirygirl, CC, Some rights reserved, via Flickr A diorama of ancient Egyptians in the Royal Museum of Scotland |
As far as the cutting out of ancient Egyptian costume is concerned. The type of the tunic, The type of the robe, The type of the skirt, with or without cape and The type of the shawl or drapery. The varieties which occur in addition to these may be found in military dress and adaptations from the costumes of other countries. All the varieties above referred to are described in detail in this volume.
Ancient Egyptian clothes refers to clothing worn in ancient Egypt from the end of
The Neolithic period (prior to 3100 BC) to the collapse of the Ptolemaic dynasty with the death of Cleopatra VII in 30 BC. Egyptian clothing was filled with a variety of colors. Adorned with precious gems and jewels, the fashions of the Ancient Egyptians were made for not only beauty but also comfort. Egyptian fashion was created to keep cool while in the hot desert.
4.1 Historical background: Throughout centuries people have been showing great interest in culture and art of Egypt, the ancient nation of the world.
The history of ancient Egypt is divided into four periods: Old Kingdom (C. 3000-2400 BC), New Kingdom (C. 1580-1090 BC) and Late period (C. 1090-332 AD). The main occupations of ancient Egyptians were farming, cattle-breeding and different handicrafts (pottery, jewellery, weaving, glass production).
The history of ancient Egypt is divided into four periods: Old Kingdom (C. 3000-2400 BC), New Kingdom (C. 1580-1090 BC) and Late period (C. 1090-332 AD). The main occupations of ancient Egyptians were farming, cattle-breeding and different handicrafts (pottery, jewellery, weaving, glass production).
The Influence of Ancient Egyptian Art and Culture throughout |
4.2 Egyptian Civilization: The basic element in the lengthy history of Egyptian civilization is geography. The Nile River rises from the lakes of central Africa as the White Nile and from the mountains of Ethiopia as the Blue Nile. The White and Blue Nile meet at Khartoum and flow together northward to the Nile delta, where the 4000 mile course of this river spills into the Mediterranean Sea.
The basic source of Egyptian history is a list of rulers compiled in c.280 B.C. by Manetho for the Macedonians who ruled Egypt. Manetho divided Egyptian kings into thirty dynasties (a 31st was added later) in the following manner.
NAME
|
DYNASTY
|
YEARS
|
Archaic Period
|
1-2
|
3100-2700 B.C.
|
Old Kingdom
|
3-6
|
2700-2200 B.C.
|
Intermediate Period
|
7-10
|
2200-2050 B.C.
|
Middle Kingdom
|
11-12
|
2050-1800 B.C.
|
Intermediate Period
|
13-17
|
1800-1570 B.C.
|
New Kingdom
|
18-20
|
1570-1085 B.C.
|
Post-Empire
|
21-31
|
1085-332 B.C.
|
4.2.1
Social structure: Egyptian society was structured like a pyramid. At the
top were the gods, such as Ra, Osiris, and Isis. Egyptians believed that the
gods controlled the universe. Therefore, it was important to keep them happy.
They could make the Nile overflow, cause famine, or even bring death.
In the social pyramid of ancient Egypt the pharaoh and those associated with divinity were at the top, and servants and slaves made up the bottom. |
4.3
Sources of Evidence: The concept of annihilation of consciousness would not have
been considered amongst the Ancient Egyptian people- their belief in the
continuation of existence after death was too potent to consider anything else.
The following Primary
Sources found amongst Ancient Egyptian discoveries display authentic
evidence of the belief of the afterlife.
4.3.1 Egyptian art: Ancient Egyptian art is
the painting, sculpture, architecture and other arts produced by the
civilization of ancient
Egypt in the
lower Nile Valley from about 3000 BC to 30 AD. Ancient Egyptian art
reached a high level in painting and sculpture, and was both highly stylized
and symbolic. It was
famously conservative, and Egyptian styles changed remarkably little over more
than three thousand years.
4.3.2 Egyptian Decorative Motifs:
Ancient Egyptian Decorative Motifs had the following patterns: cobra,
cow, feather flower, Geometric, Hathor, scarab, sphinx and star. Also they had
different kinds of borders. The Lotus Flower was the symbol of sun and
creation.
Symbolism also played an
important role in establishing a sense of order. Symbolism, ranging from the
Pharaoh’s regalia (symbolizing his power to maintain order) to the individual
symbols of Egyptian gods and goddesses, was omnipresent in Egyptian art.
Animals were usually also highly
symbolic figures in Egyptian art. Color, as well, had extended meaning Blue
and green represented the Nile and life; yellow stood for the sun god; and red
represented power and vitality. Despite the stilted form caused by a lack of
perspective, ancient Egyptian art is often highly realistic.
4.4 Fabric
& cloth production: In ancient Egypt, linen was by far the most common textile. It helped people to
be comfortable in the subtropical heat. Linen
is made from the flax plant by spinning the fibers from the stem of the
plant. Spinning, weaving and
sewing were very important techniques for all Egyptian societies.
The
beginning of the arts of weaving and dyeing are lost in antiquity. Mummy cloths
of varying
degrees of fitness, still evidencing the dyer's skill, are preserved in many museums.
4.4.1 Textile: The "spliced and
twisted" method of linen yarn production was used in dynastic Egypt. Study
of surviving textiles indicates that this technique was used in Egypt
between c.3500 and c.600 BC.
Ancient Egyptian Clothing |
Production: The manufacture of clothes was apparently mostly women's
work. It was generally done at home, but there were workshops run by noblemen
or other men of means. The first stages of the linen production were performed
by men: They reaped the plants and by beating and combing the plants they
extracted fibers from them, which could be spun into thread, the first of the
stages often performed by women. When the cloth was still woven on horizontal looms,
which were often just.
Model of weaving women at a horizontal loom, excerpt Source: V.Easy |
4.4.2 Dyeing: During the New Kingdom the Egyptians came
into closer contact with the residents of Canaan and Syria, who were adept at
dyeing cloth and appear to have passed on that knowledge to their conquerors.
We have no Egyptian account of the process of dyeing.
Textile and Dye Making |
4.4.3 Garment: The tools used such as knives and needles
changed over the centuries. Blades were made from stone during the Neolithic,
then from copper, from bronze during the Middle Kingdom and finally from iron,
though flint knives, which had sharper edges than iron ones, continued to be
used to an ever decreasing extent until Roman times. Needles were fashioned
from wood, bone and metal. The Egyptians succeeded in making eyes in millimeter
thick copper needles. Scissors came into general use late in Egypt's history
though the principle was known since the second millennium BCE.
The clothing of men and women of several social levels of ancient Egypt are depicted in this tomb mural from the fifteenth century BC |
Clothing
materials: The Egyptian climate with its hot summers and mild
winters favored light clothing made from plant fibers, Wool was used to a lesser extent ,
and seldom by Egyptians proper. Animal
skins, above all leopard skins, were sometimes worn by priests and by pharaohs
in their role as first servants of the god. Such outfits were found in
Tutankhamen's tomb and were depicted quite frequently on the walls of tombs. At
times kings and queens wore decorative ceremonial clothing adorned with
feathers.
pegs rammed
into the ground and where the weavers had to crouch on the floor, it was
generally women who performed the task. During the New Kingdom vertical looms
were invented. These new looms were physically more demanding and were
generally operated by men.
Fashion: The clothes were generally made of linen
and kept simple: a short loincloth resembling a kilt for men, a dress with
straps for women. These basic garments with minor variations accounting for
fashion, Everyday clothing was
mostly undecorated, though pleating was known since the Old Kingdom, when
some dresses of upper class
|
4.4.4 Egyptian clothing: Ancient Egyptian clothing consisted of the same
basic elements for hundreds of years. Most garments were based on rectangles of
flax. The Egyptians had an appealing fashion sense, with an awareness of line
and style to enhance female and male beauty. In a land of sometimes scorching
heat, where all work was performed manually and with simple tools, the
Egyptians made use of their resources and limited technology to create beauty
and sophisticated designs that survived them by more that three thousand years.
4.5
Costume Components: It
can easily be gathered from the illustrations that the types of costume worn by
both sexes were very similar. The high waist-line prevails in feminine dress,
while the male costume, if girded, was generally confined about the hips.
4.5.1 Costume Components for Men: about 2130 BC during the Old
Kingdom, garments were simple. The
men wore wrap around skirts known as the shendyt, which were belted at the waist, men's skirts were
short. As the Middle Kingdom of Egypt, 1600 B.C., came, the skirt was worn longer. Then, around 1420 BC, there was a
light tunic or blouse with sleeves, as well as a pleated petticoat.
Loincloth: Loincloths were made of linen, triangular in shape, and were meant to be worn under or over garments. Usually, Egyptian laborers worn them as separate garments, wrapping them around their waists like a diaper. To hold these garments in place, one attached strings or a sash to tie it around the waist. Loincloths that have been found were made of leather, in the style of the Middle and New Kingdoms. During the Old Kingdom and the first half of the Middle Kingdom, loincloths were made of cloth (linen).
Apron: Garments for men that were worn
to cover the private areas of the body, worn alone, over a skirt, or over a
loincloth and under a skirt, were aprons. This article of clothing was usually
made of one or more pieces of cloth that was attached to a belt or sash, which
was fastened about the waist. During the Old and Middle Kingdoms, aprons were
long and narrow and starting from the Middle Kingdom to the New Kingdom, aprons
were triangular in form.
Wrapped Skirts: Throughout Ancient Egyptian history, the most prominent male
garment was the wrapped skirt. Some words given to this garment were schenti, shent, skent, or schent. One can also refer
to a wrapped skirt as a kilt to distinguish it from those worn by women.
However, using this term might cause confusion because Scotsmen rather than Egyptians wore kilts.
Combining all wrapped skirts from all periods of Egyptian history and from all
social classes, ones gets a formidable list of skirts of different lengths,
widths, and fits.
Long Wrapped Garments: From the earliest dynasties
until the Middle Kingdom, men of all classes wore long wrapped garments. During
the New Kingdom, men were depicted as wearing long, loose, and flowing garments
of creased diaphanous linen. The following pictures are some ways to wrap a
garment of this kind around the body (the figure shows a woman, but men folded
their garments similarly).
Upper Body Coverings: The following are some examples of what upper body coverings
an Ancient Egyptian might have worn:
Cape-like Garments: During the Middle and New Kingdoms, cape-like garments were
typically made of short fabric that was fastened at center front.
Corselets: Although it is similar in pronunciation, this garment
did not function like a corset. Corselets were sleeveless garments, made with or without straps, and
most likely served as a decorative form
of armor. In cases where corselets had with straps, they were small and
suspended from the shoulders.
Wide Necklaces: Although necklaces are a type of jewelry, they were used
like a cape-like ornament that could be worn alone, over a linen gown, over a short cape, or with a corselet.
Wide necklaces consisted of concentric circles of precious and/or semi-precious
stones, which included lapis lazuli, turquoise, and carnelian.
Straps: Depictions of men, especially of when they were working,
show them wearing narrow straps that wrapped around the upper part of the body.
The way to wrap straps around the body varied, which could include the
following: wrapped diagonally over one shoulder, diagonally across both
shoulders to make an "X", wrapped around the waist, or wrapped at
various points around the chest. However
bizarre the wearing of straps sounds, doubt not their function, for that
ancients used them for a practical reason: to prevent perspiration from running
down the body. In other words, straps served the same purpose as sweatbands do
in modern times.
Tunics: Ancient Egyptian tunics were a mix between similar articles
of clothing worn by the Hyksos and Mesopotamians. According to Herodotus,
Egyptians called tunics calamities or kalasiris. This term can
also be applied to closely fitting dresses, better known as sheath dresses,
which Egyptian women wore. The date of the introduction of tunics in Egyptian
fashion is relatively clear: along with other new elements of dress, the tunic appeared in
use during the New Kingdom and was probably due to cross-cultural contacts with
other civilizations of the Near East or even due to the invasions of the
Hyksos. According to tomb paintings, short and long tunics were made with or
without sleeves and were often crafted of diaphanous linen. Furthermore, it is
apparent that loincloths or short skirts were worn under tunics and that
wrapped skirts could be worn over tunics.
Shawls and Cloaks: Shawls for men were made from square or rectangular pieces
of fabric that one wrapped around the upper part of the body, above the waist.
Other cloaks, of the longer kind, were worn
as well to ensure warmth. The way one wrapped a shawl or a cloak around one's
body varied and was often made to have ends tied together, over the shoulder.
During the Old Kingdom, long cloaks were popular; during the Middle Kingdom,
short shawls and long cloaks were commonly worn; and during the New Kingdom,
one tended to wear knotted and wrap-around cloaks of various styles.
4.5.2 Costume Components for Women: During
the Old, Middle and New Kingdom, Ancient Egyptian women often wore simple
sheath dresses called kalasiris.
Women's clothing in ancient Egypt was more conservative than men's clothing. The dresses were held up by one or two
straps and were worn down to the ankle, while the upper edge could be worn
above or below the breasts. The
length of the dress denoted the social class of the wearer. Beading or feathers were also used as
an embellishment on the dress.
Skirts: Most lower class women or women of the laboring class wore
skirts. These skirts were fashioned in much the same way as were wrapped skirts
that men wore, upper and lower class alike: short or long, pleated or smooth,
full or form fitting, or doubled up.
Wrapped Sheath or Dress: The wrapped or sheath dress was the most commonly worn
garment for women from all classes. If an Egyptian woman wore straps with the
sheath dress, they wore either one or two straps, which came over the shoulder
to hold the dress up. Additionally, lengths of cloth with patterns of wear
consistent with wraparound dresses have been found and were worn above or below
the chest and draped down to the lower calf or the ankle.
Beaded Net Dress: Since dying linen was an improbable way of applying color,
the most probable way that Egyptians decorated a sheath dress was to cover it
with a beaded net dress. The art of beadwork was highly developed by the New
Kingdom; evidence of this has been found in Tutankhamun's tomb. Other forms of
ornamentation may have also included the following: painted designs, appliqués,
leather, feathers, beadwork, or woven designs.
Long Wrapped Garments: Long wrapped garments were composed of diaphanous
material and served as robes that could be pleated and/or draped. Some women's
styles covered the chest while others left it exposed.
Women's long wrapped
garments resembled somewhat the male version of the same article of clothing,
but there were slight differences in the way each draped and arranged these
garments. Out of all the garments worn by women, the long wrapped dress was the
most complex. One characteristic that supports this is the ways one can wrap
the garment around the body.
Tunics: Just like men, women wore loose fitting tunics, the
construction of which was most likely influenced by Mesopotamian and Hyksos
styles. A New Kingdom fashion, women's short or long tunics could be made with
or without sleeves, were constructed from diaphanous linen, could be worn over
loincloths or short skirts, and could be worn under wrapped skirts.
V-Neck Dresses: First appearing during the Old Kingdom and continuing
onward, v-neck dresses were styles of women's clothing that have been found in
quantity, especially in tombs. These simple garments could be made with or
without sleeves, pleated or plain. In cases where they were made with sleeves,
they were of a more complex design, with a tubular skirt joined to the yoke.
Shawls and Cloaks: Women wore also long cloaks to ensure warmth. The way
an Egyptian wrapped a shawl or a cloak around her body varied and securing
either to the
body was often made
easier with the addition of loose ends that could be tied together and over the
shoulder. Long cloaks were popular during the Old Kingdom, Short shawls and
long cloaks were commonly worn during the Middle Kingdom, and the New Kingdom
saw Egyptians wearing knotted and wraparound cloaks of various styles.
Sashes: In cases where one needed to hold clothing in place,
Egyptian women used a sash like moderns do nowadays. Sashes were often made of
rope; plain-woven linen, sometimes with fringes or tassels; elaborately
designed with embroidery; or double woven fabrics. Typically, sashes were often
the only adornment and color to an Egyptians outfit if she wasn't wearing
jewelry.
4.5.3 Costume Components for Men & Women: The history of ancient Egypt is
divided into four periods: Old Kingdom (3000-2400 BC), New Kingdom (1580-1090
BC) and Late period (1090-332 AD). The main occupations of ancient Egyptians
were farming, cattle-breeding and different handicrafts (pottery, jewellery,
weaving, glass production). Egyptian fashion was practical, simple, and, for most of
the population, the same kind of outfit worn by a woman was worn by a man. The
upper-class women in the Old Kingdom of Egypt wore longer dresses which covered their breasts, but
the women of the lower classes would have worn the same simple kilt as their
fathers, husbands, and sons.
Hair and Headdresses: If depictions are anything to go by,
then ordinary Egyptians did not wear any headdress as a rule, similar to
African peoples further south. The better-off put on wigs - perhaps just on
special occasions. These grew to a remarkable size during the New Kingdom. The
pharaohs are always represented wearing crowns, but whether this is a pictorial
convention or whether they did so in every day life can not be decided.
Hair:
The common thought
about Egyptian hairstyles is that their heads were shaved and bewigged.
However, this is just a generalization. It is true that most royal Egyptians
shaved their heads with men making up a large percentage of the shaven
populace. Some Egyptians, especially priests and holy men, were obligated
to shave their heads and other places of the body such as legs, arms,
underarms, chin, and otherwise. Priests and holy men shaved as a means of being
purified and clean; one could not be purified if one was not shaven. Another
reason most Egyptians shaved their heads was to prevent the invasion of head
lice.
Wige: Wigs, common to both genders, were worn by wealthy people of society.
Made from real human and horse hair, they had ornaments incorporated into them.
They were often woven into certain hairstyles and were quite inexpensive. In
the royal court, women sometimes wore cuplets filled with perfume. They were
worn to also keep out head lice and protected the head when doing dangerous
things.
Head
coverings: From the
earliest of times in Eastern cultures it has been a sign of respect to cover
the head. Ancient head coverings for men came in various sizes and shapes.
Ancient Syrians are depicted on Egyptian monuments wearing a cloth with a
fillet of rope.
Footwear: Ancient Egyptian footwear, as most of the population
and people from all walks of life did not wear footwear often, not even the
king. It was only during the New Kingdom that Egyptians wore them, or so the
depictions illustrate. Nonetheless, there has been some proof of ancient
footwear. For example, during the Old and Middle Kingdoms, men of high rank
were typically the ones who wore shoes or sandals, whereas women rarely, if
ever, wore them. It was probably only during outings or in battle that men wore
footwear.
Jewelry: The Ancient Egyptians cherished their
supply of gold--this is most evident in their making of jewelry. In addition to
using gold, they used silver, which was a rare find in Egypt because it had to
be imported from Asia. The rarety of silver may be the reason the Egyptians
were never shown as wearing anything made of silver, though objects made from
silver have been found. Besides
using gold, silver, and glass, the ancients used also semiprecious and precious
stones to decorate their jewelry. This included lapis lazuli, turquoise,
feldspar, and carnelian. With these stones, jewelry makers worked them into
collars, pectorals, earrings, bracelets, armbands, and hair and head ornaments.
Collars: The ancient
Egyptians loved to wear a variety of necklaces and collars made from a huge
range of materials. Of course, only the wealthy could afford gold, silver or
precious stones, but shells, wood and bone were more readily available to those
on a budget. The upper classes and the gods are almost always shown wearing a
significant quantity of jewellery.
Neck Ornaments: Three of the most popularly worn neck ornaments were the pectoral,
stringed amulets, and plaques with amulets mounted into them. Diadems or Fillets: The ancients
fashioned diadems and fillets out of gold or other metals. Like wigs, diadems
could be simple or intricate in design. Most examples featured flowers or lotus
blossoms and were fashioned out of semiprecious stones such as turquoise, lapis
lazuli, and the like. Prince Sithathoreunet's diadem was fashioned similarly,
with the addition of detachable golden feathers that hang on either side of the
diadem.
Armlets,
Bracelets, Anklets: The
style of Egyptian jewelry described as
bracelets were produced in a variety of different types. Some bracelets were
anklets and armlets which might consist of plain gold rings, both solid and
hollow, bordered with plaited chain work in imitation of filigree. Earrings:
Originally worn by women, men and children wore earrings, too. Children,
especially young boys, sported them just until adulthood.
Cosmetics: Both men
and women followed certain styles and fads in their toilette--that is, in
decorating their eyes, skin, and lips. Women were the most frequent
participants in such cosmetic rituals, but men also fancied perfumes and color
around the eyes just as much as their counterparts.
Bags: Probably the most ancient of all Egyptian crafts is
basketry. During the Pre-Dynastic Ear, around 4,000 B.C.E., grain stores and
other buildings were formed of clay and then reinforced, for waterproofing
purposes, with a layer of matting, a product of basketry. The style of basketry
was conservative and practically unchanging for centuries, much like Egyptian
dress. In fact, New Kingdom baskets and modern baskets share common features.4.6 Specialized Occupations or Occasions: Knives and needles were the basic tools to cut and sew the fabric. There were certain occasions, or certain people, that needed more flare. Most ancient Egyptians preferred their clothing to be white or whitish, and so dying fabric was not very common, though it existed.
4.6.1
Military Costume: During the New Kingdom,
initially the new recruits faced a hard school of discipline as soon as they
were settled in their barracks. Their "uniform" was usually a short
kilt or merely a penis sheath, with a feather in the hair for ornament. They
were toughened up with a regime of alternati9ng physical exercise, wrestling
and weapon training. For breaches of discipline, the commander would order a
thrashing, often by his fellow recruits.
4.6.3
Costume for Musician, Dancers & Acrobats: While many cultures have very specific and often elaborate dancing
costumes, the clothes worn by Egyptian dancers were hardly elaborate or
involved enough to even call them an actual costume.
In many scenes that have survived the ages, dancers (females,
specifically) are found moving their arms and legs without being trapped by
cloth of any sort, except for the occasional small fringed skirt or tunic, not
always worn simultaneously. There were other times when dancing took place in
the nude, with nothing but a single ribbon tied loosely about the waist.
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