Rules of Pattern Grading

Pattern Grading

Pattern Grading is the process where by patterns of different sizes are produced from the original master pattern.

Patterns initially are made in only one size. In order to produce clothing that fits various body types and sizes, the pattern pieces must be increased or decreased geometrically to create a complete range of sizes. The process of resizing the initial pattern is called "grading." Each company determines its own grade specifications for each size, and size specifications vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Grading is the process of increasing or decreasing the size of a particular pattern so as to achieve the standard size of that garment.
A size chart lists the body measurements that each garment size is patterned to. It lets your customers know which size will fit them.

Size Measurements

There are various rules of pattern grading that tells the amount of change between sizes.
For example, a standard grade for misses sizes is a 1” circumference difference (at bust, waist and hips) between sizes 6, 8 and 10; a 1 ½” circumference difference between sizes 10 , 12, 14 and 16; a 2” circumference difference between sizes 16, 18, 20 and 22 . There is a ¼” length difference between each two sizes.

Pattern Grading

Pattern grading follow by rules:

Rule 1: Across bust and across waist grade always quarter of overall grade.
Example: 1" grade = 1/4" ,    11/2" grade = 3/8,    2" grade = 1/2"

Rule 2: Across shoulder arm hole with grade always 1 half of across bust and wist grade.

Example: 11/2" grade = 3/16",   1"grade = 1/8",    2" grade = 1/4",

Rule 3: Center front of length grade for all size 1/4

Dart length grade always 1/8 for all size

Side seam  grade always 1/8 for all size

Rule 4: Neck and arm hole depth 3/16 for all size.
Rule 5: Sleeve cap greed is always same as bodice arm hole.
Rule 6: Bicep and elbow grade is always same.
Rule 7: Wrist grade is half of elbow grade, sleeve length grade is always 1/4 for all size.