Methods of Pattern Grading

Pattern grading

Pattern grading is the process of turning base size or sample size patterns into additional sizes using a size specification sheet or grading increments.

Standard grading rules are given as ergonomic measurements of the body. This can be done online or in pattern grading books. When producing a clothing line, you will need a grading system to target a specific target market.

Pattern Grading

Methods of Grading

There are three basic methods of pattern grading. These include:

Cut and spread: This is the easiest method, which acts as the basis of the other two methods. To perform this method, you must cut the pattern and spread the pieces by a certain amount to grade up, or overlap the pieces to grade down. The only tools you will need for this method are a pencil, tape, ruler, and scissors.

Cut and spread pattern grading

Pattern shifting: Pattern shifting involves increasing the overall dimensions of a pattern by moving it around at a constant distance. After you move it, you redraw the outline in order to produce the same results as cut-and-spread.

Pattern shifting pattern grading

Computer grading: Computer grading is the most recent development in grading technology. It is also the fastest method. Computer grading, however, is expensive and usually only large manufacturers can afford it. Computer grading takes the processes of the two former methods and digitizes them.

Computer grading pattern grading

There is not a superior method; they are all equally capable of producing a correct garment grade.

Four ways to address an uneven grade

When you have an even grade, the process of grading is straightforward. Home sewers and dressmakers often, however, encounter uneven grades, when, for example, a dress needs to be graded up 2 in. at the bust, but 4 in. at the hip. If the grade is uneven, there are four ways to use grading to alter the pattern:

If the grade is uneven and you're sizing up, then you can use an even grade equal to the value of the largest measurement difference. If you're sizing down, then use an even grade equal to the value of the smallest difference. This will get the pattern close to the general size you need, then you can make minor adjustments as needed.
My favorite method allows for a more exact fit and is the best way to address fit problems for pear- or triangle-shaped women. Just separate the pattern at the waist, and grade the top and bottom individually. Then rejoin the pattern, and blend the new lines at the waistline.
You can address an uneven grade based solely on the difference between the bust measurement of the pattern and the body. Because the bust is the hardest part of the body to fit, many pattern makers evenly grade the pattern to fit the bust, then alter as necessary at the waist and hip.
This method is specific to a common grading challenge that occurs when a body has changed in width or height, but not both. With a client who's gained weight, for example, just grade for circumference and forget about grading for length. Or for a teenage daughter who's grown 6 in. taller but hasn't filled out otherwise, ignore circumference and only grade for length.

If the differences between these measurements aren't equal, then it's an uneven grade. This changes the shape of a garment, as well as its size, so strictly speaking, uneven grading isn't really grading. "Uneven grade" is synonymous with "pattern alteration." An even grade is the type of grade I will discuss because it's straightforward and easy to understand. Once you master the even grade, applying the methods to the uneven grade is the next step.